Monday, November 12, 2012
Really?
Apparently, there are two types of restaurant customers in this world. The people who order 9 course tasting menus, and the people who don't eat meat, bananas, grapefruits, melons, peppers, and onions........ wtf
Pumpkin
Pumpkin Bavarian
Brown Butter / Espresso churro / Strega / Mascarpone Sorbet
Ok, I love pumpkin spiced coffee..... So having said that, I had to create a dessert that embraces pumpkin and coffee. The main flavors of the dessert are pumpkin, espresso, Strega, and mascarpone. To me pumpkins are one of the most "New England" ingredients and espresso, obviously, very italian. So being an Italian-New Englander, I naturally love the two. We are in between Halloween and Thanksgiving so it is now the height of pumpkin season. I truly love pumpkins but I didn't want to cop out and just roast them and puree them. I wanted to showcase the pumpkin first and foremost. We get beautiful CT sugar pumpkins and I decided to sous-vide them in a spiced brown butter-brown sugar liquid. I cook the raw pumpkin at 187 degrees F for 40 minutes. I then dice some of the pumpkin and puree the rest with the brown butter liquid. I wanted to serve actual pumpkin pieces on the plate to ensure the diner that we utilize beautiful local pumpkins and not a canned pumpkin puree. The puree is transformed into a dense mousse, or a bavarian, the barely spiced puree is also warmed slightly and dolloped onto the plate, and the base of the dish is a torched milk meringue. I wanted to replicate the foam on a cappuccino for example, so instead of frothed milk, I made a frothy milk meringue. I then wanted to create an espresso component that was crispy but at the same time can be served warm. I settled on a churro, which has a natural organic look, that ties in nicely with the overall concept of the dish.
The churro is a pate a choux made with espresso and milk instead of water. It has a nice bittersweet flavor with nice toasted milk / caramel notes. The mascarpone sorbet provides creaminess to dish without being overpowering. The sorbet also works better than an ice cream because the mascarpone flavor isn't lost with the rest of the components. The sorbet essentially just tastes like sweetened mascarpone that is very soft when frozen. The Strega or "witch" liquor is an interesting blend of herbs and aromatics that produce a very funky aperitif. The anise and herbaceous flavors of the liquor bring out the earthy pumpkin flavor and bittersweet flavors of the coffee and mascarpone. It was also a perfect fit in that a. its italian and b. it means witch! And pumpkins and witches surely go hand and hand.


Strega!
Sunday, November 11, 2012
Mignardises
Here are just some shots of the various "mignardises" that we serve at ON20.
Frozen Red Velvet Cake (Red Velvet Ice Cream coated in cream cheese "frosting" and red velvet crumbs)
Mango-Tonka Bean Creamsicles
Pumpkin-Brioche Beignets
Pumpkin-Spiced Peanut Butter Cups
Raspberry-Beet Popsicles
Lemon Italian Ice with pine nut and rosemary
Pumpkin Spiced Peanut Butter Cups
Various Buttercrunch
Mango-Tonka Bean Creamsicles in the making
Lemongrass-Sesame Tartlets
Sunflower
"Elements of Sunflower"
Sunchoke Mousse / Sunflower Seeds / Wattleseed / Mascarpone / Acacia Honey Sorbet
I wanted to create a dessert focusing on a flower, yet using every element of the product. The dish has multiple components but focuses on sunflowers and acacia flowers. The main component is a mousse made from sunchokes. Sunchokes are the root of a type of sunflower and also go by the name Jerusalem Artichoke. The sunchokes are sous-vided with brown butter and muscovado sugar, and are then pureed and used as the base for the mousse. The mousse has sweet yet earthy notes. The sunflower seeds are cooked in honey and sunflower oil. They are well salted and add a savory component.The two sauces are mascarpone and wattleseed. Wattleseed is an interesting product and is actually the seed of acacia flowers. We were able to obtain some of the ground wattleseed from Australia. The seeds are roasted and then ground and the flavor is similar to chicory root or coffee. The wattleseed adds a nice bitterness to the dish that is balanced by the sweet mascarpone. The sorbet is made with acacia honey. The sorbet is very subtle but heightens the floral notes of the dish. It is not pictured, but the dish is then garnished with buttery-herbal sunflower sprouts and marigolds. With the plating, I wanted to try to recreate the colors of mums. The themes are flowers and fall so I wanted to represent the colors of fall by using brown, orange, and gold components.
Saturday, October 13, 2012
Autism Speaks Chef Gala 2012
These are just some photos from an awesome event in NYC, Autism Speaks. I was so honored to be invited by chef Neal Fraser from LA and it was amazing to part of the event. There were many incredible chefs and it was a just an overall great experience!
Chef Neal Fraser
My friend and very talented pastry chef Malcolm Livingston from wd-50
Plating the "Buttermilk Cheesecake"
Johnny Iuzzini plating and I was honored to watch him work
on20's Evan Small came to help out!
All the chefs!
Saturday, October 6, 2012
Service
Just some shots of pastry during service.....
herbs
buttermilk dish waiting for quenelle
chocolate and the pass
intermezzo
Celery Sorbet
absinth / lemon / granny smith apple
mignardises
Apples "Benedict"
Macoun Apple
warm spice cake / thyme / quinoa / brown butter ice cream
I decided to make the apple dessert look like a dish that was just as traditional and approachable as apple crisp... Eggs Benedict. The dish starts of with a muscovado sugar-spice cake that is baked in cast iron egg coddlers. The cake is the base of the dish and is spiced with typical seasonal spices, nutmeg, cinnamon and clove. The cake serves as the toast component. I then decided to cook slices of Macoun apples and sous-vide them in an apple cider caramel. It is very easy to cook the apples to "mush" when baked in an apple pie or apple crisp, so the sous-vided of the apples ensures that they still have a nice soft, but crisp texture. The apples are also infused with the strong flavor of the buttery, apple cider caramel. The apples taste like they have been cooked for a very long time but feel like they have been barely cooked. They make up the "canadian bacon" portion of the dish. The "poached egg" is actually a brown butter ice cream that is filled with the apple cider caramel. Due to a high ratio of glucose, the caramel "oozes" out of the completely frozen brown butter ice cream. The ice cream looks like it has been poached and this is because it has been... "poached" in liquid nitrogen. The cake is served warm with the cold ice cream on top. These differentiating temperatures of hot apples and cold ice cream, have the same nostalgic impact of that of an apple crisp. It is also served with a thyme creme anglasie that is poured table-side. This is the "hollandaise" component. Visually, it looks like breakfast but stylistically, it is a traditional dessert.
Staff Apple Crisp
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